STEP BY STEP KITECHN CABINETS INSTALLATION

HOW TO INSTALL KITCHEN CABINETS

⚠ IMPORTANT: To reduce the risk of serious or fatal injury, read and understand this entire guide before beginning any installation.

Suggested Tool and Material List

• ANSI Z87.1 Rated Safety Goggles
• Layout from Designer
• Framing Square
• Hammer
• Pry Bar
• Phillips and Flathead Screwdrivers
• Level
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Straight Edge
• Drill
• Properly Rated Extension Cord
• 7⁄32” Drill Bit for Pre-drilling the Hanging Rail
• 3⁄32” Drill Bits for Frame & Filler Attachment Pilot Holes
• Jigsaw or Table Saw
• Miter Box
• Clamps or C-Clamps
• Stud Finder
• 6’ Step Ladder
• Wood Shims
• Pin Nailer
• Small Finish Nails
• 1 x 2 or 1 x 3 Furring Strips
• Scrap Lumber (for 55” Propping Stick or T-Brace)
• Circuit Tester
• #10 x 21⁄2” Pan Head Screws (for wall attachment to stud)
• #8 x 21⁄2” Trim Head Screws (for frame attachment)

⚠ INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS – ⚠ LIABILITY DISCLAIMER ⚠

When you use these instructions, you are consenting to be bound by the provisions in this paragraph. These instructions provide instructions to instal cabinets. Instructions are not intended to address every possible contingency that might be encountered during installation or to endorse the use of any particular tools.

DISCLAIMER: WE HAS DILIGENTLY TRIED TO ILLUSTRATE AND DESCRIBE THE INSTALLATION OF THE PRODUCTS IN THIS LITERATURE CLEARLY AND ACCURATELY; HOWEVER, SUCH ILLUSTRATIONS AND DESCRIPTIONS DO NOT EXPRESS OR IMPLY A WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ANY WARRANTY THAT THE PURCHASER WILL BE ABLE TO OBTAIN A PARTICULAR RESULT, OR THAT THE PRODUCTS OR INSTRUCTIONS ARE MERCHANTABLE, OR FIT FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR THAT THE INSTALLED PRODUCTS WILL NECESSARILY CONFORM TO THE ILLUSTRATIONS OR DESCRIPTIONS OR DIMENSIONS. THESE INSTRUCTIONS DO NOT ENLARGE OR OTHERWISE MODIFY THE LIMITED WARRANTY RECEIVED WHEN YOU PURCHASED YOUR CABINETS, IF ANY. WE HEREBY EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES AND ALL LIABILITY FOR ANY CLAIMS FOR INJURY OR DEATH RELATED TO OR BASED UPON THE USE OF THESE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS AND ANY INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS OTHERWISE PROVIDED BY US. WE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INACCURACIES, OMISSIONS OR TYPOS IN THIS GUIDE.

⚠ WARNING

TO REDUCE THE RISK OF DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY, READ AND HEED ALL WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS. USE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AT ALL TIMES. MAINTAIN A CLEAN, WELL-ORGANIZED WORKSPACE. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES THAT COMPLY WITH ANSI Z87.1 AND ALL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT RECOMMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURERS OF THE TOOLS YOU WILL BE USING. ONLY ATTACH CABINETS TO CENTER OF WALL STUDS ACCORDING TO INSTRUCTIONS. THIS INSTALLATION GUIDE APPLIES TO ONLY WOOD STUD CONSTRUCTION. IF YOU ARE SECURING CABINETS TO ANOTHER MATERIAL, CONSULT AN INSTALLATION PROFESSIONAL TO IDENTIFY THE PROPER FASTENERS. NEVER USE NAILS OR DRYWALL SCREWS TO INSTALL CABINETS BECAUSE DOING SO MAY DAMAGE CABINETS OR FAIL TO PROPERLY SECURE THEM WHICH MAY RESULT IN DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY. THE REQUIREMENT FOR ALL APPLIANCE INSTALLATIONS IS TO FOLLOW THE APPLIANCE MANUFACTURER'S SPECIFICATIONS FOR ADEQUATE CLEARANCE AND REQUIRED INSTALLATION MATERIALS.

STEP 1 - Measurement

In order for cabinets to function properly, they must be installed level, plumb and flush with each other. This is easy enough to achieve with some advanced planning.

1.1

First, locate the floor’s highest point. In order to do this, place your level at the base of the wall, checking several places along the wall until you find the high point in the floor. Mark this spot.

1.2

Then measure up from there another 193⁄8”. This will be the baseline for the wall cabinets. (When you are finished, the wall cabinets will sit at 537⁄8” above the high spot in the floor). (Figure 2) Please refer to your design elevations to verify dimensions specific to your layout.

1.2

Measure up from the high point 341⁄2” and draw a level line across the wall to establish the top of the base cabinets. If installing cabinets before your flooring, be sure to allow for the thickness of the material you plan to use.

1.4

Now measure up from the wall cabinet base line the same distance as the height of your cabinets (30 1⁄8”, 36 1⁄8”, 39 1⁄8” or 42 1⁄8”). This will be the top line for the wall cabinets. All non-standard height wall cabinets need to line up with this top line as well.

STEP 2 - Prepare Wall & Corner Wall Cabinets

It is recommended that you install wall-mounted cabinets first so the base cabinets won’t be in your way as you work. To begin, most people find it helpful to lay out the cabinets on the floor in position, level and plumb, and join them before hanging.

2.1

Remove all shelves and doors. You might want to mark (or carefully stack them in position) for reinstalling later. This will make the cabinets lighter and easier to handle.

2.3

One by one, align the remainder of the cabinets and fillers in position on the floor using the plan provided by the designer.

2.5

In order to attach two cabinets, you will need to clamp them together first. Then, drill a 3⁄32” pilot hole in three places along the hinge side of the frame ensuring that the holes do not interfere with the hinge placement. Finally, drive in the #8 x 21⁄2” frame attachment (trim head) screws to join the two cabinets.

2.2

Refer to the layout provided by your designer and start with the corner cabinet (if there is one) and place it on the floor below where it is to be mounted.

2.4

Using a level, make sure each cabinet is level and each face frame (front of the cabinet) is flush with the adjacent cabinet. A pry bar and shims can be used temporarily to get everything level and plumb.

2.6

Once all cabinets are pre-assembled on the floor, measure from the corner to the first stud mark and transfer the measurement to the inside of the cabinet to be installed. Repeat this step for each and every stud. Now drill 7⁄32” holes for mounting through the top and bottom hanging rails inside of the cabinet 3⁄4” down from the top and 3⁄4” up from the bottom.

NOTE:

WHEN INSTALLING A BLIND WALL CABINET, MAKE SURE THE CABINET IS PULLED OUT FROM THE CORNER THE APPROPRIATE DISTANCE CALLED FOR IN YOUR KITCHEN PLAN. ALWAYS BE SURE TO USE A FILLER TO ALLOW FOR HINGE CLEARANCE. IT IS PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT TO INSTALL THE FIRST CABINET LEVEL AND PLUMB, BOTH FROM SIDE-TO-SIDE AND FROM FRONT-TO-BACK BECAUSE EACH ADDITIONAL CABINET WILL BE ALIGNED WITH THE FIRST ONE.PLACE TALL CABINETS FOR SPACING, BUT DO NOT ASSEMBLE.

IMPORTANT: Check to make sure the frames are even and plumb.

There are two hanging rails across the back of wall cabinets, one at the top and one at the bottom. Drill through both the top and bottom hanging rails at the stud location.

STEP 3 - Hanging Wall Cabinets

In order for cabinets to function properly, they must be installed level, plumb and flush with each other. This is easy enough to achieve with some advanced planning.

3.1

Recheck the pre-assembled cabinets for level and plumb, then disassemble wall cabinets before installing. Start with the corner cabinet. With someone else’s help, lift it into position on the support rail and use a 2 x 4 or T-Brace at the front to prop the cabinet into place. Keep in mind, blind corner cabinets may need to be pulled out from the corner as shown in your kitchen plan.

3.3

Lift the adjacent cabinet into position on the support rail and brace. Using the pilot holes you created on the floor, attach the two cabinets at the face frames, making sure they are still flush when screwed together.

Once again, fasten the cabinet to the wall with #10 x 21⁄2” wall attachment (pan head) screws. Do not fully tighten. If there is a blind corner cabinet, the opening should be sealed at this point with the 1⁄8” panel packed inside the cabinet. Pre-drill for small finishing nails or use a pin nailer.

3.2

Fasten the cabinet to the wall with #10 x 21⁄2” wall attachment (pan head) screws. Do not fully tighten the screws until all cabinets have been shimmed and properly positioned.

Next, using your level against the front of the cabinet, shim wherever necessary to make sure the cabinets are perfectly plumb (even though the walls may not be). Keep in mind, you may have to loosen the wall attachment screws slightly to shim properly.

3.4

Continue along the walls until all cabinets are in place. If a tall or utility cabinet is part of your plan, it should be added at this point. Once again, shim for proper height and to align so that it is perfectly plumb with the adjacent wall cabinet. Once face frames are flush, clamp, drill and screw together as previously described.

Once all cabinets are properly shimmed and properly positioned, finish tightening the screws to secure the cabinets to the walls. Remove the support rails and spackle screw holes if needed.

⚠ WARNING

TO REDUCE THE RISK OF SERIOUS OR FATAL INJURY, REMOVE ALL SCREWS AND DISASSEMBLE WALL CABINETS BEFORE INSTALLING. CABINETS MAY BE TOO HEAVY FOR ONE PERSON TO SAFELY LIFT ALONE. THIS INSTALLATION GUIDE APPLIES TO ONLY WOOD STUD CONSTRUCTION. IF YOU ARE SECURING CABINETS TO ANOTHER MATERIAL, CONSULT AN INSTALLATION. PROFESSIONAL TO IDENTIFY THE PROPER FASTENERS. NEVER USE NAILS TO INSTALL CABINETS BECAUSE DOING SO MAY DAMAGE CABINETS OR FAIL TO PROPERLY SECURE THEM WHICH MAY RESULT IN DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY TIGHTENING BACK RAILS AGAINST A CROOKED WALL WITHOUT SHIMS CAN BREAK JOINTS BETWEEN THE RAIL AND THE BODY OF THE CABINET, CAUSING IT TO FALL FROM THE WALL AND POSSIBLY RESULTING IN SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.

TO AVOID RISK OF DRIVING SCREWS BEYOND THE CABINET FACE, CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO PREVENT OVER TIGHTENING OF THE SCREWS AND DESTROYING THE INTEGRITY OF THE HANGING STRIP.

TO REDUCE THE RISK OF SERIOUS INJURY OR DAMAGE FROM A LOOSE OR FALLING CABINET, WALL CABINETS GREATER THAN 12” IN DEPTH OR LARGER THAN 24” IN WIDTH MUST NOT BE INSTALLED AND/OR USED AS SINGLE, STAND-ALONE CABINETS WITHOUT TAKING EXTRA PRECAUTIONS TO FULLY AND SAFELY SECURE THE CABINET TO THE WALL. ADDITIONAL MOUNTING SUPPORT INTO A CEILING, BULKHEAD, OR SIDE WALL(S) IS ALSO RECOMMENDED WHEN POSSIBLE. WHEN THIS IS NOT POSSIBLE, THEN ADDITIONAL SUPPORT MUST BE PROVIDED EITHER ABOVE OR BELOW THE CABINET TO SUPPORT WEIGHT AT A POINT AT LEAST 12” FROM THE WALL. THIS CAN BE DONE THROUGH ANGLE BRACKETS/BRACING, SHELVING, AND/OR ADDITIONAL CABINETS AS A STAND.

STEP 4 -Install Fillers (where applicable)

Fillers may be necessary when installing cabinets. They help allow for odd dimensions between a run of cabinets and the wall. They also allow clearance for doors and drawers to operate properly when turning a corner with a blind corner cabinet. Fillers and valances often have to be trimmed to fit.

4.1

Measure the area requiring a filler piece. Carefully trim the filler piece to the appropriate width with a saw.

4.3

Fasten the filler to the cabinet with #8 x 21⁄2” frame attachment (trim head) screws

4.5

4.2

Clamp the filler in place and once again, drill a pilot hole on the hinge side of the face frame and into the filler.

4.4

If using a blind corner base, secure the other end of the filler through the inside of the cabinet with the same pilot hole and frame attachment screw technique.

4.6

NOTE:

IMPORTANT: Check to make sure the frames are even and plumb.

There are two hanging rails across the back of wall cabinets, one at the top and one at the bottom. Drill through both the top and bottom hanging rails at the stud location.

BASE CABINET INSTALLATION

Installing base cabinets is very similar to the wall cabinets above. The idea again is to lay out all the cabinets in position and make sure all cabinets are level, square and plumb.

STEP 5 - Install Base Cabinets

5.1

Remove all shelves, drawers and doors. You might want to mark (or stack them in position) for reinstalling later. This will make the cabinets lighter and easier to handle.

5.3

Make sure your cabinet reaches the 341⁄2” high level line you drew on the wall. If not, you may have to shim into position or use scrap to raise it to the proper level. If the cabinet is tilting backward, shims at the back edge will help. If it’s tilting forward, use the pry bar under the front to adjust and then shim.

5.5

Next, shim the adjacent cabinet into position and check for level and plumb. Once again, clamp the face frames when they are perfectly flush, drill pilot holes and join the two cabinets with screws as previously described.

5.2

Start with the corner cabinet (if there is one) and place it in position where it is to be mounted. When using a blind base cabinet, make sure the cabinet is pulled out from the corner the appropriate distance as called for in your kitchen plan.

5.4

Measure from the corner to the first stud mark and transfer the measurement to the inside of the cabinet to be installed. Repeat this step for each and every stud. Now drill 7⁄32” mounting holes through the center of the hanging rail inside of the cabinet. Fasten the cabinet to the wall with #10 x 21⁄2” wall attachment (pan head) screws.

5.6

Continue this process until all cabinets are in place, making sure that each cabinet is resting at the line on the wall, level and plumb with each adjacent cabinet. Also make sure to screw cabinets to each other at the face frames before screwing to the wall

NOTE:

NOTE: YOU MAY NEED TO CREATE CUTOUTS FOR PLUMBING AND ELECTRICAL JUNCTION BOXES. BE SURE TO MEASURE AND MARK ACCURATELY. CUT HOLES FROM THE BACK OF THE CABINET BEFORE MOUNTING TO THE WALL.

A BLIND BASE CABINET FILLS THE VOID OF THE CORNER WITH USABLE STORAGE. THE DOOR COMES PRE- MOUNTED ON THE LEFT SIDE, BUT CAN BE MOVED TO THE RIGHT DEPENDING ON YOUR DESIGN

STEP 6 - Install Moldings

ALWAYS USE A MITER BOX FOR ACCURATE MOLDING CUTS AND DOUBLE CHECK THE ANGLE REQUIRED BEFORE CUTTING

6.1

Trim molding is used to trim out cabinetry where cabinets meet an adjacent wall, soffit or ceiling. Carefully measure and cut to proper length. Use small finish nails or a pin nailer to attach where cabinet and wall meet.

6.3

When moldings meet at an angle, you will need to use a miter box for a proper cut. Once moldings are cut to fit, use small finish nails or a pin nailer to attach the molding to the face frame of the cabinet.

6.2

Crown moldings mount along the top edge of the cabinets. 7.2 If your cabinets are full overlay, you may need to install some blocking material to the top of the cabinet first.

6.4

When trimming molding, keep in mind that the proper position for the molding in the miter box is upside down with the bottom edge resting against the fence.

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